Log 1 Feb 2009

GLENCOE 1 FEBRUARY 2009

Given the cold brisk morning and the early rise, there was a surprisingly big gathering of 9 in the car park. Without much hesitation, the group all headed for Stob Coire nan Lochan to see what the gullies were like given the favourable weather and avalanche forecasts.

Two cars were parked at the first available car park at the foot of Gearr Aonach and set out at 9:10 am towards Coire nan Lochan. Weather was dry and conditions underfoot were firm. Occasional bits of blue skies were seen, although it was rather breezy with a subzero windchill factor of what felt like -50C, slight exaggeration but it was close to -20C... honest!!
Before the climb to the lochans, crampons were fastened and a few donned on some rather alien shaped helmets.

Once we were at the base of Stob Coire nan Lochan one group (Andy Baker, Iain Wilson, Laurence and Shirley Smith (guests of Laurence Archer) opted for a winter walk and went up the north ridge of SCNL whilst the other group (Koon, Dave, Laurence Archer, Billy and Sean) opted to climb the Boomerang gully. The snow in the gully was firmly packed but there were areas where the ice axe did not anchor at all.  So although not the best of conditions but in the usual MMC style for the sake of speed, the climbers decided to solo the first third of the route and then two protected pitches afterwards saw them safely to the top at about 1 pm.

Given the freezing temps on the summit, the two parties didn't hang around waiting on each other but the climbing group saw the unmissable MMC sign next to the cairn indicating that the other group had been and set off down. So without further ado they walked to the col between SCNL and Bidean and descended into the Lost Valley. A few bum slides were had and a couple nearly careered into rocky outcrops due to the compacted snow!

All had a great winter's day out and were safely back to the car after 4pm and a quick drink was had in the Bridge of Orchy.

Report by Koon Morris